
Courtesy NBC News
By JoNel Aleccia, Staff Writer, NBC News
Europe's
scandal over horse meat hidden in beef products -- including recalls of
Nestle ravioli and Birds Eye chili con carne -- has renewed questions
about whether Americans unwittingly could be eating equine products as
well.
U.S. Department of Agriculture regulators say it's highly
unlikely that beef adulterated with horse meat could make it to the
nation's dinner plates because no domestic suppliers currently slaughter
horses and the agency has strict labeling and inspection standards for
imported meat.
But agency officials also acknowledge privately
that species testing for meat imported into the U.S. is performed
typically only when there's a reason to question a shipment.
And a Florida company that supplies the only validated tests for
horse meat in food has been slammed with nearly 1,000 requests in recent
weeks for its $500 kits -- including orders from major U.S. meat
producers.
"It's becoming a little hectic," said Natalie Rosskopf,
administrative director of Elisa Technologies Inc. of Gainesville.
"There was no call for horse testing a month ago. Nothing."
Continental
Europe has been roiled recently by reports of horse meat masquerading
as beef in frozen burgers and prepared foods, including frozen dinners
and pastas. This week, Nestle announced it was removing chilled pasta
products produced by a German supplier, including Buitoni Beef Ravioli
and Beef Tortellini, from stores in Italy and Spain, and a lasagna
product from France. On Friday, frozen food maker Birds Eye said it
would withdraw products including chili con carne from Britain and
Ireland because tests detected traces of horse DNA.
The trouble
with horse meat hidden in beef is partly a health concern. Meats taken
from store shelves in Britain and Germany had traces of a powerful
equine painkiller, phenylbutazone, or "bute," which is banned in animals
destined for human food, tests showed.
But it's also about trust,
especially in the U.S., where many shudder at the mere thought of
eating horse meat and the deception would raise even more suspicion
about a company's practices.
"If a company is willing to commit
fraud, I can't imagine that food safety is the biggest thing on their
agenda," said Bill Marler, a Seattle lawyer and food safety expert who
publishes a blog focused on the industry.
In fact, boneless beef adulterated with horse meat -- and with
kangaroo -- did make it to the U.S. more than 30 years ago, when
mislabeled meat from Australia led to the impounding and testing of 66
million pounds of the product, according to old USDA records found and posted by Marler.
Known
as the "Australian meat incident," the beef substitution scandal
prompted swift action and increased scrutiny by agency officials.
USDA
officials couldn't quickly produce records of species testing results
in the past 30 years -- or even the past year -- but they say the
possibility of that happening again is remote. The U.S. neither
slaughters horses nor imports horse meat from other countries, and it
doesn't allow import of beef from the countries and companies involved
in the European scandal, an official told NBC News. (He was speaking on
background because he said he wasn't authorized to discuss the issue.)
In
addition, USDA inspectors look at every shipment of meat sent through
U.S. ports and can demand species testing if anything is amiss, documents show.
Officials
with the Food and Drug Administration, which oversees processed foods,
said that they had detected no horse meat in imported or U.S.-made
food.
"We have no past record or current indication that horse
meat is an ingredient in any FDA-regulated processed foods in the U.S.,"
Jalil Isa, an FDA spokesman, said in an email. He added that FDA
officials are reaching out to Nestle and Birds Eye to ensure that no
adulterated food was sent to the U.S. Nestle has said no U.S. products use meat from European sources.
Birds
Eye Iglo U.K. products have no connection to the Birds Eye brand in the
U.S., which is owned by Pinnacle Foods, and isn't affiliated with the
U.K. supplier.
Producers such as the meat giant Cargill say they don't import beef
from plants that also slaughter horses, or from the companies and
suppliers implicated in the European scandal, and they remain confident
that their meat is free of adulteration.
"Cargill's beef supply
chain is shorter than those involved in the horse meat issue in Europe
and we know, and work directly with, our suppliers, which minimizes the
potential for fraudulent substitution of products," Cargill spokesman
Mike Martin told NBC News in an email.
Still, the problems in Europe could prompt renewed scrutiny, he added.
"We
do not analyze for other species and are assessing the current
situation to determine if this is something we might do in the future,"
Martin said.
If they do, they'll have to turn to Elisa
Technologies for the horse species test, said Rosskopf. The company's
meat species kits, which verify animal proteins in raw and cooked meat
samples, have been used for years by the USDA and by private firms, she
said.
Before the discovery in Europe of horse meat in beef, the
firm's typical demand was for tests for more common species, for
instance, to confirm that no pork was present in kosher meat, Rosskopf
said. Now, meat suppliers mostly in Europe, but also in the U.S., have
been clamoring for the equine test.
Have there been any positive tests so far?
"I can't say," said Rosskopf, noting that the company is known for its adherence to confidentiality agreements.
Of
course, putting horse meat on the dinner table is common in many
countries, including France, Canada, Mexico and Japan, to name a few.
And it's not unheard of on American menus, either. Slaughterhouses that
produced horse meat for human consumption were in operation in the U.S.
until 2007, when the last three of a one-time high of 16 or 17 plants
closed under state and federal pressure.
Congress effectively
banned the practice then by refusing to fund USDA inspections of the
slaughterhouses. Those efforts were fueled by vocal anti-slaughter
activists who regarded the practice as inhumane.
The arrangement stayed in place until 2011, when the Obama administration quietly lifted the restriction,
partly out of concern for the neglect of horses in the U.S. and the
treatment of horses that were shipped to Canada and Mexico to be killed.
The
U.S. exported more than 46,000 metric tons of horse meat in 1990, a
figure that fell to about 5,600 metric tons in 2007, when the ban was
enacted, industry figures show.
Wyoming state Rep. Sue Wallis is
trying to reinstate horse slaughter in the U.S. and to build a new
source for the meat in America and abroad.
Her application is
among those pending with the USDA to open horse slaughterhouses in
Missouri, Iowa and New Mexico. The firms would produce what she and
other advocates call "cheval," horse meat that she said is prized by
gourmet cooks and health enthusiasts for its taste and lean profile.
Plus, Wallis said, horse meat is generally about 40 percent cheaper than
beef.
"There are plenty of people in America who have no problem with cheval and are anxiously awaiting our product," she said.